论文翻译-中英文对照

服装产品中纤维含量标识标准的可操作性探讨
Discussion on the Operability of Standard Identification of Fiber Content of Garment Product

摘要：为了有效执行FZ/T 01053-2007 《纺织品 纤维含量的标识》标准、提高服装产品检测质量，增强纤维含量标识标准的可操作性，通过大量比对试验，并对质量检测中遇到的有关问题深入探讨后，找出对现行纤维含量标识标准中有关条款的修订方法。
Abstract: To effectively implement FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content, strengthen quality control of garment product, improve the Operability of Standard Identification of Fiber Content and find out way to revise terms on the existing Standard Identification of Fiber Content through rich comparison tests and discussion on problems in the quality inspection.
关键词：标准  纤维含量标识  可操作性  探讨
Key words: Standard, Identification of Fiber Content, Operability and Discussion
0  前言
0  Preface
自2001年12月中国加入WTO[1]后，一方面为中国的纺织服装产品全面加入国际竞争提供了很好的机会，另一方面也会影响到尚未完成的我国服装业的升级换代与结构调整。面临着巨大的机遇和挑战，为了提高纺织业在国际上的竞争力，必须应用新技术开发新产品，提高产品附加值和质量、树立自主品牌是企业提高国际竞争力的重要手段之一。纺织品质量[2]的优劣与生产过程中的各个环节都有密切的联系，质量因素是多方面的，其生产过程或过程中的各项活动的质量就决定了产品的质量。适用、实用的纺织标准就为纺织生产提供量化标准，其中纺织纤维种类[3]及其含量是标志纺织品品质的重要内容之一，也是消费者购买纺织品时最直接的关注点，准确标注服装产品的纤维含量，对于承担纺织品质量监督任务的质量监督机构来说，可谓任重道远。FZ/T 01053-2007 《纺织品 纤维含量的标识》自2007年11月1日实施以来，为规范纤维含量标注发挥了很大作用，但随着各类产品的不断出现，也显示了实际应用中的弊端，能否最大限度提高纤维含量标识的可操作性成为商家、质量检测机构和标准起草部门一直追求的目标。
Since China’s access to WTO [1] in December 2001, it has created a good opportunity for China’s textile apparel participating in international competition on one hand; on the other hand, it has exerted influence on the uncompleted upgrading, reforming and structural regulation of China’s clothing industry. Facing both great opportunity and challenge, enterprises should become more competitive in textile industry in the world by applying new technology to develop new products, improving the added value and quality of products, and setting independent brand. The quality [2] of textile is in close connection with each production link and affected by many factors. The production process as well as the activities in the production process will determine the quality of the products. Applicable and practical textile standard offers quantitative criteria for textile production. Meanwhile, category [3] and content of textile fibre are important factors indicating the quality of textile, and also the direct focuses of customers when buying textile. Quality Supervision Institution for supervising the quality of textile shoulder heavy responsibilities of marking the fibre content of garment product accurately. Since FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content was carried out on November 1, 2007, it has played important role in specifying the identification of fibre content. While, it has also had some disadvantages in practical use due to the creation of a variety of products. As a result, improvement of the Operability of Identification of Fiber Content becomes the goal pursued by enterprises, Quality Supervision Institution and Standard Draft Department persistently.
1   国家标准中纤维含量的标识
1.  Identification of Fiber Content as for National Standard
我国的纺织品检测标准的制定[4]和修订速度明显滞后于产品的开发速度。纺织品检测的国家标准、行业标准及企业标准大部分都是20世纪90年代初制定和发布的，即使部分内容有所更新，也因品种单一和不配套而使标准缺乏连贯性和严密性，导致标准在实际执行的过程中遇到瓶颈。例如FZ/T 01053-2007 《纺织品 纤维含量的标识》纤维含量允差7.1中规定：产品或产品的某一部分完全由一种纤维组成时，用“100%”、“纯”或“全”表示纤维含量，纤维含量允差为0；同时该标准7.5 中也规定：当产品中某种纤维含量≤0.5%时，可不计入总量，标为“含微量XX”。简单归纳上述两点标准，不难得出下面的结论：如标注为100%棉的产品中是不允许含有其它纤维的，那怕只含有0.01%的其它纤维都可判定为不合格产品；同理，当标注为100%棉（含微量涤纶）的产品也不能只含棉纤维，一定要有≤0.5%的涤纶才可以判定为合格产品。
The formulation and revision of inspection standard of China’s textile are far behind the development of products. National standard, industrial standard and enterprise standard of textile inspection were mostly constituted and issued in the early 1990s, part of which were in trouble during the implementation and renewed for lack of consistency and strictness because of single and unmatched products. For example, concerning the tolerance, in clause 7.1 of FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content, it is specified that when the product or some part of the product is made of a certain fibre, it should indicate the fibre content with “100%”, “pure” or “full”, and the tolerance of the fibre content is 0; in clause 7.5, it is specified that when fibre content of the product is no more than 0.5%, it may not be calculated in the total content and marked with “micro XX contained”. In summarization of the above two standards, it can be undoubtedly concluded that the product with only 0.01% fibre can be judged unqualified if the product marked with 100% cotton allows no other fibre; similarly, the product marked with 100% cotton (with micro terylene) cannot contain cotton fibre only and must contain no more than 0.5% terylene. In this way, it can be judged qualified.

2   检测过程中常见的问题
2.  Problems during the inspection
2．1  相同产品在标准中的不确定性
2.1 Uncertainty of standard of same product
在实际的产品质量监督检测过程中，常常会遇到一些产品标注为100%棉却检测出含有极少量其它纤维的情况，这一点在牛仔服装的定性和定量过程中体现尤为突出。例如，某牛仔裤吊牌标签标注纤维含量为100%棉，可是运用切片在显微镜下观察时，整个切片上有时会观察到有一、二根粘纤或麻纤维等的存在，多次观察会时有时无的出现，由于含量太少，无法利用化学溶解法或其它方法定量其具体含量。出现这种情况时，有的检测部门会理解为产品在整个流程中夹杂飞花等极微量非人为因素的纤维，仍可标注为100%棉，有的检测部门会建议标注为100%棉（含微量其它纤维），这时就会出现同一个产品有两种不同的标注结果。
During the quality inspection and test, it is usually detected that some products marked with 100% cotton contain little other fibre, which is well demonstrated on the qualitative and quantitative process for jeans. For example, some jean label is marked with 100% cotton fibre. However, when the slice is observed with microscope, the slice is found with one or two strips of viscose or fibrilia. After observed for many times, the slice is found with viscose or fibrilia every now and then. The viscose or fibrilia cannot be measured with chemical dissolution method or some other method for it is in existence with very little quantity. In such a case, some Quality Supervision Department will think that the product can still be marked with 100% cotton even if it is mixed with micro fibre beyond control, such as flying; while, another Quality Supervision Department would suggest 100% cotton (micro other fibre). Finally, the same product could be marked in two different ways.
2．2  不同时期和服装不同部位检测中出现的不同结果
2.2 Different detection results of different parts of the clothes in different periods
有的生产商在成品布送检时，检测结果为100%棉，当产品在成品服装再次送检时，却检测出含有微量其它纤维，或者是同一件服装面料的不同部位纤维含量稍有差异，有的部位为纯棉，有的部位却含有微量其它纤维的情况。出现诸如此类情况后，不管是生产者、服装产品检测部门，还是产品质量监督部门都感到很难解释，各方都对自己的检验结果持肯定态度。因为标准的可操作性问题引发各检测部门的判定尺度不一致，常常引起客户抱怨。
When submitted for inspection by manufacturers, the cloth of the product is detected with 100% cotton. But the finished clothes are detected with micro other fibre when submitted for inspection again, or the fibre content of different parts of the same material is slightly different. Some parts are pure cotton, while other parts are with micro other fibre. In this case, the manufacturer, Garment Product Supervision Department and Quality Supervision Department have difficulties in explaining and each is affirmative about its inspection. The operability of standard leads to the inconsistent criteria for all the supervision departments, which often results in complaints from customers.
2．3对比试验
2.3 Comparison test
为了弄清以上出现的问题，进行了大量而系统的对比试验[5]研究，合作单位是某著名品牌生产商。
To make issue mentioned above clear, abundant and systematic comparison tests [5] are carried out. The cooperative enterprise is a famous manufacturer.

2．3．1 主要仪器
2.3.1 Main instrument
纤维细度分析仪、哈氏切片器、分析天平（精度为0.0002g）、电热鼓风烘箱（能保持温度为105℃±3℃）、恒温振荡器（温度可调）、干燥器（装有变色硅胶）、250ml有塞三角烧瓶、量筒。
Fiber fineness analyzer, fiber slice cutter, analytical balance (0.0002g precision), electric blast drying oven (keep temperature at105℃±3℃), constant temperature vibrator (with adjustable temperature), drier (with allochroic silicagel), 250ml stuffed conical flask and graduated flask.
2．3．2 试样制备
2.3.2 Preparation of test sample
20件送检样品中随机抽取5件，分别编号为A、B、C、D、E做为试验样品，并且在每个样品的不同部位按照标准中样品制备要求剪取共计4份试样分别编号为①、②、③、④。
Randomly selecting 5 from 20 samples for inspection and respectively recording them with A, B, C, D and E as samples to be inspected; according to the requirements of preparing samples by standard, cutting 4 parts from different parts of each different samples and respectively recording them with①, ②, ③ and ④.
2．3．3 试样定性
2.3.3 Determination of nature of test sample
通过燃烧法和显微镜法可以初步确定为棉纤维。
It can be preliminarily determined as cotton fibre through burning and microscope.
2．3．4 试样干重测定
2.3.4 Measuring of dry weight of test sample
把试样放入已恒重的称量瓶内，在105℃±3℃烘箱中烘干后，盖上瓶盖，移入干燥器中冷却、称重，重复上述操作直至恒重。
Put the test sample in the weighing bottle with constant weight; dry in the oven at a temperature of 105℃±3℃; put on the bottle cap and then remove to the drier for cooling and weighing; repeat the steps to get a constant weight.
2．3．5 溶解纤维素纤维
2.3.5 Dissolution of cellulosic fibre
用75%（m/m）硫酸把纤维素纤维从已知干重的试样中溶解，然后把不溶纤维清洗、烘干、冷却、称重，计算出各组分含量百分率。
Dissolve cellulosic fibre of the dried sample with 75% (m/m) sulphuric acid; clean and dry insoluble fibre; cool, weigh and calculate the percentage of each component.
2．3．6 净干重量百分率的计算
2.3.6 Percentage of calculation of net dry weight
计算方法如下：
The method is as follows:
P1=               
P2=100－P1
式中：P1----不溶解纤维的净干含量百分率，%；
In the formula, P1 is the percentage (%) of net dry weight of insoluble fibre;
P2----溶解纤维净干含量百分率，%；
P2 is the percentage (%) of net dry weight of soluble fibre;
m0----预处理后试样干重，g；
m0 is the dry weight (g) of sample pretreated;
m1----剩余的不溶纤维干重，g；
m1 is the dry weight (g) of the rest insoluble fibre;
d------不溶纤维在试剂处理时的重量修正系数。
d is the modified coefficient of weight of the insoluble fibre when processing reagent;
d值计算方法如下：
d is calculated as follows:
         d=
式中：m0----已知不溶纤维干重，g；
In the formula, m0 is the dry weight (g) of the known insoluble fibre;
m1----试剂处理后不溶纤维干重，g；
m1 is the dry weight (g) of the insoluble fibre after processing reagent;
本实验中d=1.00.
In this experiment, d=1.00.
2．3．7 试验数据
2.3.7 Experimental data
实验数据如表1所示。
Experimental data are shown in the following table 1:
表1 试验数据
Table 1: Experimental data
试样
Test sample  溶解前试样干量（g）
Dry weight (g) of test sample prior to dissolution 溶解后不溶纤维干量（g）
Dry weight (g) of insoluble fibre after dissolution 不溶纤维百分含量（%）
Percentage (%) of insoluble fibre   

2．3．8 试验结果分析
2.3.9 Analysis of test results
通过对表1中剩余纤维进行分析处理，得知剩余的是涤纶纤维。表1试验数据中，20块总试样中，含有涤纶的试验样品有7块，占总试验样品的35%，而且涤纶含量都很小，均没有超过0.1%；另一现象是含有微量涤纶样品的分布没有规律可寻，存在一定的随机性。合作客户提供了其纯棉牛仔服装的生产工艺，并没有人为加入涤纶等其它纤维的可能。
Through analysis and treatment of the rest fibre in the table 1, we can know that the rest is polyester fiber. Of 20 test samples, there are 7 test samples with terylene, which makes up 35% of the total test samples, and the terylene is very little, that is, no more than 0.1%. In addition, test samples with micro terylene are distributed irregularly, and they are random. The cooperative enterprise provided the production process for pure cotton jeans, so it is impossible to add terylene or other fibre by men.
综合分析各方面因素，可以判定这些涤纶是服装在纺纱、织造、染整等流程中非人为因素而混入的，所以它存在极大的偶然性、随机性和微量性，即同一批次的面料，因为飞花等不可避免因素，从而出现了表1中不规则的检验数据。
With analysis of all aspects, it can be judged that the terylene is mixed beyond control when the clothes are spun, weaved, dyed and finished. There is chance and randomness, and it is little, that is, different data in table 1 has occurred for the same batch of material owing to inevitable factor, such as flying.
3  标准标识的不完整性
3 Incompletion of standard identification
3．1  微量纤维的忽略量
3.1 Negligible quantity of micro fibre
根据实验结果，那么类似这批服装到底该如何标注其成分含量呢？问题就在于FZ/T 01053-2007 《纺织品 纤维含量的标识》标准的可操作性上，该标准中没有具体量化微量到底能少到多少就可以忽略。
According to the test results, how to mark the component content for such similar apparel? The point is the operability of Standard of FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content, which did not specify how much micro fibre can be neglected.
3．2  产品的合格与不合格性
3.2 Qualification and disqualification of products
表1中的检验结果，质量检测部门到底应该如何标注呢？既不能单纯按照FZ/T 01053-2007 《纺织品 纤维含量的标识》7.1条款标为100%棉，也不能按7.5条款标为100%棉（含微量涤纶），如果片面标注都有可能在市场质量监督中被判为不合格项目的风险。
According to the test results in table 1, how should the Quality Supervision Department mark the component content? It cannot purely mark 100% cotton in accordance with clause 7.1 of FZ/T 01053-2007 Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content or 100% cotton (with micro terylene) in accordance with clause 7.5. If marked with any one, the products may be judged unqualified during the quality inspection.
3．3  对于标准修订的建议
3.3 Suggestions on revision of standard
出现上述被动局面的真正原因是该标准制定的不够周全，缺乏实际的可操作性而造成的，所以建议尽快完善标准，确定出可标识微量纤维含量的具体量值指标为≤0.5%且＞0.1%，从而使标准与时俱进，适应质量检测部门、市场质量监督部门以及生产厂商等各方的要求。只有不断增加标准的社会适应性和权威性，才能让标准更好地为生产者、消费者和质量监督部门服务。
The said problem is caused by incompletion and lack of operability of standard. Therefore, it needs to perfect the standard as soon as possible and determine the quantum index of micro fibre is no more than 0.5% and more than 0.1%, so as to make the standard keep pace with times and satisfy the requirements of Quality Supervision Department, Quality Control Department and manufacturer. Only adaptability and authority of the standard are improved can it serve the manufacturer, customer and Quality Supervision Department very well.
4  小结
4. Conclusion
通过长期的实践和总结，如果将纤维含量标识“7.5 当产品中某种纤维含量≤0.5%时，可不计入总量，标为‘含微量XX’”这一条修改为“7.5 当产品中某种纤维含量总量≤0.5%且＞0.1%时，可不计入总量，标为‘含微量XX’；当某种纤维含量总量≤0.1%时可以忽略不计” 时，就能完全满足正常的检测需要。所以，将不多于0.1%的微量纤维进行必要的忽略，在纤维含量标识标准的可操作性上是可行的。
Through long-term practice and conclusion, it can meet the requirements for normal inspection in case of revising “When fibre content of some product is no more than 0.5%, it may not be calculated in the total content and marked with ‘micro XX contained’ in clause 7.5 of Textiles—Identification of Fiber Content” into “When fibre content of some product is no more than 0.5% and more than 0.1%, it may not be calculated in the total content and marked with ‘micro XX contained’; when fibre content of some product is no more than 0.1%, it can be neglected.” In conclusion, it is feasible to neglect no more than 0.1% fibre concerning the Operability of Standard Identification of Fiber Content.
参考文献：
Bibliography:
 [2]  蒋耀兴 郭雅琳 纺织品检验学[M] 北京：中国纺织出版社
Inspection of Textiles [M] by Jiang Yaoxing and Guo Yalin, published by China Textile & Apparel Press in Beijing
 [3] 田恬 纺织品检验[M] 北京：中国纺织出版社
Testing of Textiles [M] by Tian Tian, published by China Textile & Apparel Press in Beijing
[4] 吴坚 李淳 家用纺织品检测手册[M] 北京：中国纺织出版社
Inspection Manual for Household Textiles [M] by Wu Jian and Li Chun, published by China Textile & Apparel Press in Beijing
作者简介：
Introduction to the author:
XX(1980)，男，助理工程师，主要从事各类纺织品检验和标准研究工作。
XX, born in 1980, male, assistant engineer, engaged in inspection and standard research of various textiles.